# ISO 4915 Stitch Types Chart: Stitch Class, Thread Count and Typical Use > Source: https://netray.co/tools/iso-4915-stitch-types-sewing-reference > Publisher: Netray (netray.co), AI and integration engineering for ERP and manufacturing systems. > Section: Free Tools ## Short answer Searchable list of the common ISO 4915 stitch numbers with class, thread count, machine type and where each is used in garments. ## Category industry-templates ## Industry Textile and Apparel ## Audience - Plant manager - Sewing line supervisor - Industrial engineer - Merchandiser ## Tool **Kind:** worksheet **Mode:** reference **Columns:** #### Stitch no. **Key:** stitch **Type:** text #### Class **Key:** cls **Type:** text #### Name **Key:** name **Type:** text #### Threads **Key:** threads **Type:** number **Format:** integer #### Typical machine **Key:** machine **Type:** text #### Typical use **Key:** use **Type:** text **Rows:** #### Single thread chainstitch **Stitch:** 101 **Cls:** 100 single thread chainstitch **Threads:** 1 **Machine:** Single needle chainstitch **Use:** Basting, bag closing, temporary seams #### Blind stitch **Stitch:** 103 **Cls:** 100 single thread chainstitch **Threads:** 1 **Machine:** Blindstitch machine **Use:** Blind hems on trousers and skirts #### Lockstitch **Stitch:** 301 **Cls:** 300 lockstitch **Threads:** 2 **Machine:** Single or twin needle lockstitch **Use:** Seaming wovens, topstitching, collars #### Zigzag lockstitch **Stitch:** 304 **Cls:** 300 lockstitch **Threads:** 2 **Machine:** Zigzag lockstitch **Use:** Elastic attachment, decorative and stretch seams #### Double locked chainstitch **Stitch:** 401 **Cls:** 400 multi-thread chainstitch **Threads:** 2 **Machine:** Chainstitch with looper **Use:** Jeans side seams, long seams on wovens #### Bottom cover stitch, two needle **Stitch:** 406 **Cls:** 400 multi-thread chainstitch **Threads:** 3 **Machine:** Flatbed coverstitch **Use:** Hems and bindings on knits #### Bottom cover stitch, three needle **Stitch:** 407 **Cls:** 400 multi-thread chainstitch **Threads:** 4 **Machine:** Flatbed coverstitch **Use:** Wide hems on activewear and underwear #### Three thread overedge **Stitch:** 504 **Cls:** 500 overedge chainstitch **Threads:** 3 **Machine:** Overlock **Use:** Edge finishing and seaming light knits #### Four thread mock safety **Stitch:** 512 **Cls:** 500 overedge chainstitch **Threads:** 4 **Machine:** Overlock **Use:** Seaming woven and knit garments #### Four thread overedge **Stitch:** 514 **Cls:** 500 overedge chainstitch **Threads:** 4 **Machine:** Overlock **Use:** Seaming stretch and knit fabrics #### Five thread safety stitch (401 plus 504) **Stitch:** 516 **Cls:** 500 overedge chainstitch **Threads:** 5 **Machine:** Safety stitch overlock **Use:** Seaming wovens in one pass, workwear #### Two needle top and bottom cover **Stitch:** 602 **Cls:** 600 covering chainstitch **Threads:** 4 **Machine:** Flatlock or coverstitch **Use:** Flat seams on knit sportswear #### Three needle top and bottom cover **Stitch:** 605 **Cls:** 600 covering chainstitch **Threads:** 5 **Machine:** Flatlock or coverstitch **Use:** Flat seams and hems on activewear #### Four needle flatlock **Stitch:** 607 **Cls:** 600 covering chainstitch **Threads:** 6 **Machine:** Flatseamer **Use:** Flat butted seams on underwear and sportswear **Notes:** Thread counts follow the standard stitch descriptions. Seam type (ISO 4916, such as SS, LS, BS) is a separate classification and is not shown here. Confirm stitch selection against the buyer tech pack, since many customers specify stitches per operation. ## Content **Intro:** ISO 4915 gives every stitch a three-digit number, so a tech pack, a routing and the sewing floor can all name the same stitch without argument. This table lists the stitches most plants actually run, with thread counts and typical use. **Sections:** #### How to read a stitch number **Body:** The first digit is the class. Class 100 is single thread chainstitch, 200 is hand stitches, 300 is lockstitch, 400 is multi-thread chainstitch, 500 is overedge chainstitch and 600 is covering chainstitch. The following digits identify the variant within that class. So 301 is the plain two-thread lockstitch, while 516 is the five-thread safety stitch that combines a 401 chainstitch with a 504 overedge in one pass. **Bullets:** - 301: needle thread plus bobbin thread - 401: needle thread plus looper thread, stronger and more stretch - 504 to 516: overlock family, edge trimmed and finished - 602 to 607: cover stitches for flat, stretch seams on knits #### Using stitch types in costing and routing **Body:** Thread consumption, machine speed and operator skill all depend on the stitch. A 516 safety stitch uses far more thread per meter than a 301 lockstitch, and a 605 cover stitch needs a dedicated machine. Put the ISO stitch number on each operation in the routing and on the operation breakdown so industrial engineers can set standard minutes and purchasing can plan thread cones by shade and tex. #### Common mistakes **Body:** Do not confuse stitch with seam. A stitch is how threads interlace, a seam is how fabric plies are joined. Do not use a 301 lockstitch on stretch seams that need to extend, because the stitch has little elasticity and will pop. Do not specify a stitch the buyer has not approved, since stitch type affects strength, appearance and wash performance. **Bullets:** - Stitch is thread interlacing, seam is ply assembly - Use chain, overedge or cover stitches where stretch is needed - Record the stitch number on every routing operation **Cta:** If your routings and operation breakdowns live in spreadsheets, we can show how to carry stitch type and thread consumption into your ERP routing data. **Faq:** #### What is the difference between stitch 301 and 401? **Answer:** Stitch 301 is a lockstitch made with a needle thread and a bobbin thread, so it looks the same on both sides. Stitch 401 is a double locked chainstitch made with a needle thread and a looper thread, with more stretch and no bobbin changes. #### What does a 516 safety stitch consist of? **Answer:** A 516 safety stitch combines a 401 two-thread chainstitch with a 504 three-thread overedge stitch in one pass. It uses five threads, seams and finishes the edge at once, and is common on woven workwear and trousers. #### Which stitch is best for stretch knit hems? **Answer:** Cover stitches such as 406, 407 and 602 are the usual choice. They use multiple needles and a looper so the seam stretches with the fabric, and they give a flat finished hem on activewear and underwear. #### Is ISO 4915 the same as ISO 4916? **Answer:** No. ISO 4915 classifies stitch types by how threads interlace. ISO 4916 classifies seam types by how fabric plies are joined. A single seam type can be made with several different stitch types. ## Search terms ISO 4915 stitch types, stitch 301 lockstitch, stitch 401 chain stitch, stitch 504 overlock, stitch 602 cover stitch, stitch types chart apparel, safety stitch 516, sewing stitch classification --- Talk to an engineer: https://netray.co/contact?intent=erp_ai | Machine catalog: https://netray.co/agent/catalog.json