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Garment Size Grade Spec Worksheet

A size chart tells the factory what each point of measure must be in every size. This worksheet builds a size set from the base size and a grade step, and keeps the tolerance beside it so that sewing and final inspection check the same numbers.

Download:

S	M	L	XL
51.5	54	56.5	59
49.5	52	54.5	57
68.5	70	71.5	73
44	45	46	47
62	63	64	65
18.5	19	19.5	20

Points of measure

Average grade step (cm)

1.5

This worksheet uses a uniform step between sizes, which is a simplification. Real grade rules can differ between size breaks, so overwrite computed sizes in the exported file where your pattern block needs it. All measurements are garment measurements, not body measurements.

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How to use the worksheet

Enter the points of measure that the buyer specifies, then the base size value in the middle size and the grade step in centimetres. The small, large and extra-large columns calculate from those two numbers. Change the example rows to your style, export the table to Excel, and paste it into the tech pack. If a size break is not uniform, edit the exported cells for that size and note the exception.

Name each point of measure exactly as the buyer does
Measure flat, laid on a table
Keep the tolerance column in the exported file
Hold the base size sample for the whole run
Use the same unit across the pack

Grading in plain terms

Grading scales a base pattern up and down to produce other sizes. The grade step is the change per size at a given point, for example 2.5 cm in chest width or 1 cm in sleeve length. Body-width points grade more than shoulder or neck points. A uniform grade is a quick approximation, and most pattern makers refine increments at larger sizes. The tolerance defines how far a finished garment may differ from spec before it fails inspection.

Common mistakes and ERP notes

Frequent errors include mixing half-chest and full-chest numbers, applying the grade in the wrong direction, and using a tolerance in different units from the spec. In an ERP, size is usually an item variant or a matrix dimension. Keep the size codes in the chart identical to the ERP size codes, so that the measurement spec, the production order and the packing list all use the same labels.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is a grade step?

It is the difference in a measurement from one size to the next at a given point of measure. For example, a 2.5 cm chest grade means each larger size is 2.5 cm wider at the chest, measured flat on the garment.

Is chest measured flat or around?

Specs normally state flat half-chest, measured across the garment. Always confirm whether your buyer lists half or full circumference. The worksheet works with either, but all points in the same chart must use the same basis.

Why keep tolerances in the same sheet?

Inspectors need the spec and the allowed variation together. Putting tolerance beside each point of measure avoids guesses on the line and gives auditors a clear basis for passing or failing a garment.

Can I add more sizes?

You can add more columns in the exported file by extending the same pattern. For plus sizes or children, use a separate chart with its own base size and grade steps instead of stretching one grade rule.

If size and variant data is hard to keep consistent between style files and your ERP, we can take a look and suggest a cleaner structure.

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