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ISO 4915 Stitch Types Chart: Stitch Class, Thread Count and Typical Use

ISO 4915 gives every stitch a three-digit number, so a tech pack, a routing and the sewing floor can all name the same stitch without argument. This table lists the stitches most plants actually run, with thread counts and typical use.

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Stitch no.	Class	Name	Threads	Typical machine	Typical use
101	100 single thread chainstitch	Single thread chainstitch	1	Single needle chainstitch	Basting, bag closing, temporary seams
103	100 single thread chainstitch	Blind stitch	1	Blindstitch machine	Blind hems on trousers and skirts
301	300 lockstitch	Lockstitch	2	Single or twin needle lockstitch	Seaming wovens, topstitching, collars
304	300 lockstitch	Zigzag lockstitch	2	Zigzag lockstitch	Elastic attachment, decorative and stretch seams
401	400 multi-thread chainstitch	Double locked chainstitch	2	Chainstitch with looper	Jeans side seams, long seams on wovens
406	400 multi-thread chainstitch	Bottom cover stitch, two needle	3	Flatbed coverstitch	Hems and bindings on knits
407	400 multi-thread chainstitch	Bottom cover stitch, three needle	4	Flatbed coverstitch	Wide hems on activewear and underwear
504	500 overedge chainstitch	Three thread overedge	3	Overlock	Edge finishing and seaming light knits
512	500 overedge chainstitch	Four thread mock safety	4	Overlock	Seaming woven and knit garments
514	500 overedge chainstitch	Four thread overedge	4	Overlock	Seaming stretch and knit fabrics
516	500 overedge chainstitch	Five thread safety stitch (401 plus 504)	5	Safety stitch overlock	Seaming wovens in one pass, workwear
602	600 covering chainstitch	Two needle top and bottom cover	4	Flatlock or coverstitch	Flat seams on knit sportswear
605	600 covering chainstitch	Three needle top and bottom cover	5	Flatlock or coverstitch	Flat seams and hems on activewear
607	600 covering chainstitch	Four needle flatlock	6	Flatseamer	Flat butted seams on underwear and sportswear

Thread counts follow the standard stitch descriptions. Seam type (ISO 4916, such as SS, LS, BS) is a separate classification and is not shown here. Confirm stitch selection against the buyer tech pack, since many customers specify stitches per operation.

Routing and operation data review

Optional: a review of how operations, stitch types and thread usage are held in your ERP routings.

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How to read a stitch number

The first digit is the class. Class 100 is single thread chainstitch, 200 is hand stitches, 300 is lockstitch, 400 is multi-thread chainstitch, 500 is overedge chainstitch and 600 is covering chainstitch. The following digits identify the variant within that class. So 301 is the plain two-thread lockstitch, while 516 is the five-thread safety stitch that combines a 401 chainstitch with a 504 overedge in one pass.

301: needle thread plus bobbin thread
401: needle thread plus looper thread, stronger and more stretch
504 to 516: overlock family, edge trimmed and finished
602 to 607: cover stitches for flat, stretch seams on knits

Using stitch types in costing and routing

Thread consumption, machine speed and operator skill all depend on the stitch. A 516 safety stitch uses far more thread per meter than a 301 lockstitch, and a 605 cover stitch needs a dedicated machine. Put the ISO stitch number on each operation in the routing and on the operation breakdown so industrial engineers can set standard minutes and purchasing can plan thread cones by shade and tex.

Common mistakes

Do not confuse stitch with seam. A stitch is how threads interlace, a seam is how fabric plies are joined. Do not use a 301 lockstitch on stretch seams that need to extend, because the stitch has little elasticity and will pop. Do not specify a stitch the buyer has not approved, since stitch type affects strength, appearance and wash performance.

Stitch is thread interlacing, seam is ply assembly
Use chain, overedge or cover stitches where stretch is needed
Record the stitch number on every routing operation

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between stitch 301 and 401?

Stitch 301 is a lockstitch made with a needle thread and a bobbin thread, so it looks the same on both sides. Stitch 401 is a double locked chainstitch made with a needle thread and a looper thread, with more stretch and no bobbin changes.

What does a 516 safety stitch consist of?

A 516 safety stitch combines a 401 two-thread chainstitch with a 504 three-thread overedge stitch in one pass. It uses five threads, seams and finishes the edge at once, and is common on woven workwear and trousers.

Which stitch is best for stretch knit hems?

Cover stitches such as 406, 407 and 602 are the usual choice. They use multiple needles and a looper so the seam stretches with the fabric, and they give a flat finished hem on activewear and underwear.

Is ISO 4915 the same as ISO 4916?

No. ISO 4915 classifies stitch types by how threads interlace. ISO 4916 classifies seam types by how fabric plies are joined. A single seam type can be made with several different stitch types.

If your routings and operation breakdowns live in spreadsheets, we can show how to carry stitch type and thread consumption into your ERP routing data.

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